LED Light Therapy and Acne: Which Colors Work (And What the Actual Science Says!

Jun 9, 2026 Emily Trampetti Acne
LED Light Therapy and Acne: Which Colors Work (And What the Actual Science Says!
All Articles

June is Acne Awareness Month! And it's fitting because the beginning of summer is when I tend to see (and hear about) an increase in pimples and skin congestion. So if you've been searching for a treatment that actually addresses acne without making other things worse (spoiler alert, this happens A LOT!) — keep reading!

 

Wait, So What Does LED Therapy Have to Do With Acne?

LED light therapy (especially red light therapy) is everywhere right now. I get questions about it daily. Plus, I think all of us have been served some sort of at-home LED mask or device ad in the last 24 hours on social media. It seems like everyone who is anyone has some sort of device. And if you've ever wondered whether any of it actually works, or whether it's just another trend dressed up in futuristic technology, you're asking the right question!

I've used LED phototherapy in my treatments for years. I've seen what it does when it's done right. And I've watched the at-home device market explode with products that range from genuinely useful to completely useless. So let's talk about what the research actually says, what it doesn't, and how to use this technology without wasting your money or your time.

Here's the short answer to the acne question: it depends entirely on which color you're using. Red light and blue light do completely different things in the skin. This is where most of the confusion starts. People hear "LED therapy" and assume it's one thing, or that it's synonymous with "red light therapy." It's not. Each wavelength has a different target, a different depth of penetration, and a different clinical application. More on that in a minute. Stick with me, it’s worth the read!

Get ready to be the new skincare expert in your group of friends!

 

What Is LED Therapy, Really?

LED stands for light-emitting diode. The therapy itself, discovered in the 1960s and studied intensely by NASA, uses specific wavelengths of light to trigger biological responses in your cells. Mainly, it helps energize them.

To be clear, when I say light, I don't mean UV or laser. LED is targeted, visible light at specific wavelengths that penetrate the skin at various depths depending on the color, and interact with different cellular targets along the way.

So the color is everything! This is the part nobody explains properly, so let me break it down based on the visible color spectrum:

Blue light (400–495 nm) stays relatively shallow and works primarily in the upper layers of the skin. This is why it's commonly called the acne wavelength. It targets the porphyrins inside Cutibacterium acnes (the bacteria behind most breakouts) and essentially destroys them through a photochemical reaction. It also has anti-inflammatory effects that calm active lesions. If you're dealing with acne, blue is your BFF. This is why I commonly use my Celluma LED panel on blue for my acne clients.

Green light (around 520–560 nm) works between blue and yellow in terms of depth. It targets melanocytes and can help with pigmentation, redness, and general skin brightening. Less researched than red or blue, but clinically useful for hyperpigmentation and rosacea-prone skin. Most devices focus on either blue or red, so green and yellow are less common and harder to find.

Yellow light (around 570–590 nm) sits between green and red in terms of depth and is one of the more underrated wavelengths in clinical practice. It targets oxyhemoglobin in the blood, which makes it particularly effective for reducing redness from vascular inflammation. I reach for yellow when a client's skin is reactive, sensitized, or dealing with a rosacea flare. It's a gentler choice than red for skin that needs calming before it's ready for anything more active. Post-treatment, it can support lymphatic drainage and speeds up the skin's natural recovery process.

Red light (630–660 nm) penetrates deeper, into the dermis. It's absorbed by mitochondria (remember from bio class that this is the powerhouse of the cell!) to trigger more ATP production (cellular energy), which ultimately helps drive collagen synthesis, reduces inflammation, and accelerates repair and healing. Red light is your anti-aging, barrier-supporting, healing wavelength. There are back-and-forth arguments in the industry about whether it can also support hyperpigmentation disorders. While the heat emitted from this wavelength can potentially trigger more pigmentation, some argue the inflammation-targeting effect helps break it up. In my experience, it can be helpful in limited amounts for those with superficial pigmentation.

Near-infrared (800–860 nm) goes even deeper than visible red light and reaches the dermis more reliably. It's particularly useful for deeper inflammation reduction, wound healing support, and overall tissue repair. You can't see it, but your skin can feel the difference. My FDA-cleared Celluma LED Panel includes this wavelength and I use it for more advanced healing — even muscle soreness, alongside true infrared.

 

So What Does the Data Say About LED?

I'm not here to sell you hype, so I want to be clear about where the science is solid and where it gets murky.

Well-supported:

  • Blue light for acne. Clinical trials consistently confirm that blue light reduces acne lesions through its antibacterial and anti-inflammatory effects. It's one of the better-researched non-topical acne treatments available. The mechanism is understood and the results are reproducible.

  • Red light for collagen and anti-aging. Multiple clinical trials, including double-blind, placebo-controlled split-face studies, have shown statistically significant reductions in wrinkle severity, improved skin elasticity, and increased collagen production. A 2023 meta-analysis confirmed significant anti-aging outcomes across studies. The studies that produced these results used professional-grade devices with sessions typically running 10–20 minutes, multiple times per week, over 4–12 weeks. There's no single magic formula, but the consistent thread is proper power delivery, close skin contact, and repeated sessions over time. The protocol matters just as much as the device.

  • Combination wavelengths beat single wavelengths. This is one of the most consistent findings in the literature. Red plus near-infrared together produce better collagen and elastin results than either alone. For acne, blue plus red outperforms blue by itself. This makes sense given how much deeper wavelengths focus on healing and repair, which most skin conditions genuinely depend on.

Where it gets complicated:

  • The many OTC at-home devices are the wild card. Most clinical studies use professional-grade equipment with calibrated irradiance, specific energy delivery, and controlled treatment distances. Consumer devices vary wildly in power output and many fall below the threshold needed to produce the cellular effects shown in research. A 2024 review found that most at-home device studies are small, industry-sponsored, and lack long-term follow-up. Surprise, surprise.

That doesn't mean all at-home devices are useless. It means device quality matters enormously. There's also no universal treatment protocol. Duration, distance from skin, energy density, and frequency all affect outcomes. Be skeptical of any brand claiming their specific protocol is indefinitely proven.

 

What I Use in Treatments and What I'd Recommend For You

In my treatment room at Skin Property Esthetics in Winter Garden, FL, I layer various LED tools into custom facial treatments rather than using them as a standalone session. That's intentional, since in the treatment room, I have many tools at my disposal to give you the exact combination of modalities for the most targeted results.

You CAN do this at home too. The trick is to see LED light therapy as a complement to your overall routine and treatment plan. Think of it like a finishing step that boosts what you've already done. I'll typically use the anti-inflammatory effect of red light after a chemical peel or microneedling to help boost the body's healing response, or do a round of blue light after extractions and before applying hydrating products. It's not going to solve all your skin issues on its own. It's just one tool in the arsenal. Your topical skincare products will always be the main event, but this can be a solid opening act if you get my drift.

Emily-Approved OTC LED Devices*

*Not paid by anyone for these recommendations. This is based on my own experience and secondary research.

When I look at what devices I bring into my clinic, I evaluate a few things in particular:

  • Wavelength specificity. The device should clearly state the wavelength(s) it emits. Vague marketing terms like "red light" without a specific nm range are a flag. You want 630–660 nm for red, 800–860 nm for near-infrared, and 405–420 nm for blue.
  • Irradiance. This is the power output delivered to your skin, measured in mW/cm². Most therapeutic studies use devices in the 10–100+ mW/cm² range. Many consumer devices fall well below this. If the brand won't disclose it, that's a red flag.
  • Application. Devices that sit directly on or very close to the skin are generally more effective than panels held at a distance for short sessions. Distance matters more than most people realize.

The professional devices I use in my clinic are the Celluma Professional Panel and the MySkinBuddy handheld device, which combines LED (red, blue, and green) with ion care and sonic vibration. The multi-modal approach is what makes it useful beyond a single-wavelength device. You can shop the MySkinBuddy here. If you're interested in the Celluma panel, I can usually help you get a decent price off the website — reach out to me directly on that.

Therabody TheraFace Mask (~$650) Pros: Great bulb quantity (lots of diodes, high irradiance), FDA-cleared, has red/blue/infrared capabilities Cons: Pricey for an OTC device

CurrentBody Skin LED Anti-Acne Mask (~ $570) Pros: Multi-color (great for targeting multiple concerns), high number of bulbs, comfortable, neck and chest attachment available Cons: Can get pricey with the attachment; irradiance quality may not match the price point

Dr. Dennis Gross DRx SpectraLite FaceWare Pro (~ $455) Pros: Short session time, reasonably priced for the quality Cons: Detailed specs are limited so overall strength is hard to confirm; only includes red and blue, no infrared

And here's my honest caveat! Most people who invest in one of these devices use it for a month or two, then stop out of inconvenience. It ends up in a drawer collecting dust. This is why it's worth understanding exactly why you're investing in it and how you'll use it realistically in your routine. My advice is to ask your trusted esthetician what they think — someone who knows you and your habits — before you spend the money. For this to work, it takes real consistency, and impatience is why most people feel like it "didn't work."

 

My End Verdict

LED phototherapy is one of the few "trendy" treatments I actually tend to believe in and use regularly in my treatment room. The mechanism is real. The clinical evidence for red light on collagen and blue light on acne is solid. The limitations are mostly around device quality and protocol consistency, not the underlying technology/science itself.

But remember, it is NOT a replacement for a targeted skincare routine, a solution for severe inflammatory acne or deep pigmentation, or a miracle machine that overrides everything else you're doing for your skin. It is a well-researched, low-risk, non-invasive tool (often cleared during pregnancy too!) that supports your skin's natural repair processes when used correctly and consistently. For clients who are already doing the foundational work with their esthetician, an at-home LED device can be a meaningful add-on that enhances results over time.

And if you're dealing with active acne, it's one of the best non-topical or medication-based tools available. If you're focused on anti-aging, it belongs in your routine alongside SPF and a solid barrier protocol. And if you want help figuring out exactly how it fits into your skin strategy, that's exactly what I'm here for.

 

Ready to Add LED to Your Routine?

Local to Winter Garden? Book a customized facial that includes LED therapy as part of your treatment plan. Book in-person here

Working from anywhere? Start a virtual coaching session and I'll help you build a home routine that includes the right devices for your specific skin goals. Book virtual coaching here

Want the device? Shop the MySkinBuddy and other tools I actually use and recommend. Shop tools and devices

 

References

  • Ngoc LTN, et al. Utilization of light-emitting diodes for skin therapy: systematic review and meta-analysis. Photodermatology, Photoimmunology & Photomedicine. 2023.

  • Mineroff J, et al. Photobiomodulation CME Part II: Clinical applications in dermatology. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology. 2024.

  • Li WH, et al. Low-level red plus near infrared lights combination induces expressions of collagen and elastin in human skin in vitro. International Journal of Cosmetic Science. 2021;43(3):311–320.

  • Russell BA, Kellett N, Reilly LR. A study to determine the efficacy of combination LED light therapy (633 nm and 830 nm) in facial skin rejuvenation. Journal of Cosmetic and Laser Therapy. 2005;7(3-4):196–200.

  • Barolet D, et al. Photobiomodulation in dermatology: harbinger of a new era in skin care. International Journal of Molecular Sciences. 2024.

Share:
More Than a Facial: Why I Added a PEMF Therapy Mat to Every Treatment at Skin Property
  • Emily Trampetti
  • Blood Flow
More Than a Facial: Why I Added a PEMF Therapy Mat to Every Treatment at Skin Property
Most facials address what you can see. At Skin Property, we go deeper. Every in-person treatment includes the Holistix Paragon PEMF mat, a full-body therapy device that supports bone health, better sleep, inflammation reduction, and nervous system regulation, all while your facial is happening above. The science behind it is real, the body benefits are well-researched, and your skin shows the difference when your whole system is working better. Here's exactly how it works and why I built my studio around this approach.
Learn More
Close-up of a woman applying retinol to her fingertip, demonstrating proper retinoid usage in a skincare routine for sensitive or acne-prone skin.
  • Emily Trampetti
  • Acne
Is Tretinoin Better Than Retinol? Here's the Real Truth About Retinoids
By Emily Trampetti, Licensed Esthetician & Skin StrategistSkin Property Esthetics | Winter Garden, FL + Virtual Coaching Nationwide Let’s Clear Up the Retinoid Confusion If you’ve ever typed “best retinoid for skin” into Google or fallen into a late-night skincare scroll on TikTok or Instagram, you’ve likely come across two major players: tretinoin (aka Retin-A or Renova) and retinol. But what do they actually do? Are they interchangeable? And more importantly—should you be using one at all? This guide will walk you through the science, the skincare strategy, and the real-world results behind retinoids. Because choosing the right one isn’t about using what’s “strongest”—it’s about using what’s smartest for your skin’s condition, sensitivity, and goals. First, What Exactly Are Retinoids? Retinoids are a family of ingredients derived from vitamin A, an essential, fat-soluble vitamin responsible for: Skin cell turnover Collagen production Oil regulation Reduced breakouts Brightened pigmentation Smoother texture Protection against oxidative stress They’re some of the most researched ingredients in skincare—and for good reason. But not all retinoids are created equal, and how your skin processes them matters a lot. Retinoic Acid: The Real Star At the end of the day, all retinoids aim to do the same thing: convert into retinoic acid, the form of vitamin A your skin cells actually understand and respond to. Think of retinoic acid as the “language” your skin speaks. Your skin has special receptors—like little locks—that only retinoic acid fits into. Once those receptors are activated, your skin knows it’s time to regulate certain disharmonies in the skin such as skin cell turnover, collagen and oil production and even overall skin function. But not all retinoids speak that language right away. Some retinoids need to go through a few translation steps before they become retinoic acid. Others skip the small talk and go straight to work. Here’s the basic conversion pathway, from the most gentle (and slowest to activate) to the strongest and most direct: Retinyl Esters → Retinol → Retinaldehyde → Retinoic Acid (also known as Tretinoin) Each step down the chain means your skin has to do less of the conversion work. But that's not always a good thing for many skin types—especially if you’re sensitive, reactive, or just starting out. The more steps required, the slower and more controlled the activation, which helps reduce the risk of irritation and inflammation. Tretinoin, on the other hand, is already retinoic acid in its pure form. That means it skips all conversions and starts activating those receptors immediately. While that can be super effective, it can also overwhelm the skin if your barrier isn’t prepared or supported. So, choosing the right retinoid isn’t about picking the “most powerful.” It’s about picking the one your skin can tolerate, benefit from, and build on over time. What Is Tretinoin? Tretinoin is a prescription-strength version of retinoic acid. Some common brand names you may have heard of are Retin-A or Renova. Since it delivers that active form directly to the skin, it’s highly effective—but also much more intense. Originally developed in the 1960s for acne, tretinoin is now widely used for: Moderate to severe acne Post-acne scarring Fine lines and wrinkles Sun damage and texture Melasma and stubborn pigmentation But because it skips all the conversion steps, tretinoin can also come with: Redness and irritation Peeling and dryness Sensitivity and chronic inflammation Barrier disruption Especially if introduced too aggressively. What Is Retinol? Retinol is the over-the-counter sibling of tretinoin. It’s a gentler precursor that your skin slowly converts into retinoic acid over time. Because of this slower process, retinol is: More tolerable for sensitive, dry, or reactive skin A great option for beginners Less likely to trigger barrier damage Still effective with consistent use Better for long-term use without aggressive side effects In short, retinol is ideal for clients who want results without drama or long-term inflammation. Why Inflammation Matters So Much Let’s pause for a quick esthetician PSA: Inflammation is not your friend. While short bursts of controlled inflammation (like in a professional peel or microneedling session) can kickstart repair, chronic low-grade inflammation—also known as inflammaging—leads to: Collagen breakdown Increased pigmentation Accelerated aging More skin conditions Weakened skin barrier This is why I never recommend starting with the strongest option “just because.” More isn’t better. Stronger isn't always better. Smarter is better. If your skin is inflamed, nothing works the way it’s supposed to—including your expensive products. In fact, I often cannot even treat people who have been on tretinoin long-term as their barriers are super weak and raw. So... Is Tretinoin Better Than Retinol? It depends on your skin. Tretinoin might be a better choice if: You’ve used retinol consistently for 6+ months without any noticeable improvement in your skin condition(s). You have grade III or IV acne and have not found relief of improvement via facials, peels, or retinol usage after 6+ months. You’re supported by both a licensed esthetician and dermatologist collaboratively who both think tretinoin would be a good next step. You have a healthy, resilient skin barrier and a solid skincare routine including daily sunscreen usage. Retinol is typically better if: You’re new to active ingredients. You want long-term, sustainable anti-aging benefits. You have sensitive, dry, or easily inflamed skin. You’re focused on supporting your barrier and preventing issues before they start. You have weak kidney function or internal toxicity. And sometimes… no retinoid at all is the smartest option: If your skin is youthful and healthy. If you’re dealing with extreme sensitivity or barrier damage. If you’re pregnant or planning to become pregnant. If you simply prefer a more minimal or natural routine. My Skin Property Philosophy on Retinoids Start with the skin barrier. If your barrier isn’t thriving, nothing else matters. Don't use a retinoid unless your barrier is strong and ready. Inflammation should be strategic, never chronic. Retinoids, especially retinoic acid, can create chronic inflammation. Stronger ≠ better. Smarter = better. Always. All skin is different and takes a unique approach. I don't have ONE client with the same routine or treatment strategy. I never slap retinoids into a routine just for the sake of it. I evaluate your goals, your lifestyle, and your skin’s real-time needs to build a plan you can actually stick to—one that gets results without wrecking your skin in the process. How to Choose the Right Retinoid Here’s the simple 5-step decision tree I use with clients: Step 1: Define your goal. Are we targeting acne, aging, texture, pigmentation—or a combo? No goals? Then we probably don't need a retinoid. Step 2: Evaluate sensitivity. If you flush, peel, or sting easily, we’re starting low and slow or not at all. Step 3: Start with a stabilized retinol or retinal. I typically recommend starting with 1–3 nights per week, gradually increasing with barrier support in place. Step 4: Pair it with proper support. Always use SPF, a nourishing skin-appropriate moisturizer, and gentle cleansers alongside your retinoid. Step 5: Reassess regularly. Skin evolves with time, seasons, hormones, stress, and life. Your skincare should evolve, too. This is why I typically change my clients' routines seasonally. Should I Be Using a Retinoid at All? Maybe. But maybe not. This is exactly where a licensed esthetician comes in—to help you decode the noise, understand your skin’s unique needs, and build a strategy that supports real results. Dermatologists are amazing at diagnosing and prescribing. But estheticians like me are your ongoing strategy partners. I help guide ingredient choices, monitor progress, pivot routines, and coach you through long-term changes—without the inflammation spiral. Do not rely on Google or ChatGPT for figuring out what you need - there's not substitution for an experienced expert. Final Thoughts From Your Skin Coach There’s no one-size-fits-all in skincare, especially with ingredients as potent as retinoids. Your skin is a living, evolving organ—and it deserves a thoughtful, personalized plan. So whether you're in Winter Garden, FL looking for a customized facial, or you're anywhere in the U.S. ready to start your virtual skincare coaching journey, I’m here to help you choose what’s best for your skin—not someone else’s routine. Ready to Start? Book your virtual consultation or in-person facial today and let’s find out if retinol, tretinoin—or something else entirely—is right for you. Skin Property Esthetics | Winter Garden, FLServing clients virtually across the U.S. and beyondBOOK YOUR APPOINTMENT HERE!
Learn More
All Articles