- Article published at:
- Article author: Emily Trampetti
- Article tag: Acne
By Emily Trampetti, Licensed Esthetician & Skin StrategistSkin Property Esthetics | Winter Garden, FL + Virtual Coaching Nationwide
Let’s Clear Up the Retinoid Confusion
If you’ve ever typed “best retinoid for skin” into Google or fallen into a late-night skincare scroll on TikTok or Instagram, you’ve likely come across two major players: tretinoin (aka Retin-A or Renova) and retinol.
But what do they actually do? Are they interchangeable? And more importantly—should you be using one at all?
This guide will walk you through the science, the skincare strategy, and the real-world results behind retinoids. Because choosing the right one isn’t about using what’s “strongest”—it’s about using what’s smartest for your skin’s condition, sensitivity, and goals.
First, What Exactly Are Retinoids?
Retinoids are a family of ingredients derived from vitamin A, an essential, fat-soluble vitamin responsible for:
Skin cell turnover
Collagen production
Oil regulation
Reduced breakouts
Brightened pigmentation
Smoother texture
Protection against oxidative stress
They’re some of the most researched ingredients in skincare—and for good reason. But not all retinoids are created equal, and how your skin processes them matters a lot.
Retinoic Acid: The Real Star
At the end of the day, all retinoids aim to do the same thing: convert into retinoic acid, the form of vitamin A your skin cells actually understand and respond to.
Think of retinoic acid as the “language” your skin speaks. Your skin has special receptors—like little locks—that only retinoic acid fits into. Once those receptors are activated, your skin knows it’s time to regulate certain disharmonies in the skin such as skin cell turnover, collagen and oil production and even overall skin function.
But not all retinoids speak that language right away. Some retinoids need to go through a few translation steps before they become retinoic acid. Others skip the small talk and go straight to work. Here’s the basic conversion pathway, from the most gentle (and slowest to activate) to the strongest and most direct:
Retinyl Esters → Retinol → Retinaldehyde → Retinoic Acid (also known as Tretinoin)
Each step down the chain means your skin has to do less of the conversion work. But that's not always a good thing for many skin types—especially if you’re sensitive, reactive, or just starting out. The more steps required, the slower and more controlled the activation, which helps reduce the risk of irritation and inflammation.
Tretinoin, on the other hand, is already retinoic acid in its pure form. That means it skips all conversions and starts activating those receptors immediately. While that can be super effective, it can also overwhelm the skin if your barrier isn’t prepared or supported.
So, choosing the right retinoid isn’t about picking the “most powerful.” It’s about picking the one your skin can tolerate, benefit from, and build on over time.
What Is Tretinoin?
Tretinoin is a prescription-strength version of retinoic acid. Some common brand names you may have heard of are Retin-A or Renova. Since it delivers that active form directly to the skin, it’s highly effective—but also much more intense.
Originally developed in the 1960s for acne, tretinoin is now widely used for:
Moderate to severe acne
Post-acne scarring
Fine lines and wrinkles
Sun damage and texture
Melasma and stubborn pigmentation
But because it skips all the conversion steps, tretinoin can also come with:
Redness and irritation
Peeling and dryness
Sensitivity and chronic inflammation
Barrier disruption
Especially if introduced too aggressively.
What Is Retinol?
Retinol is the over-the-counter sibling of tretinoin. It’s a gentler precursor that your skin slowly converts into retinoic acid over time.
Because of this slower process, retinol is:
More tolerable for sensitive, dry, or reactive skin
A great option for beginners
Less likely to trigger barrier damage
Still effective with consistent use
Better for long-term use without aggressive side effects
In short, retinol is ideal for clients who want results without drama or long-term inflammation.
Why Inflammation Matters So Much
Let’s pause for a quick esthetician PSA: Inflammation is not your friend.
While short bursts of controlled inflammation (like in a professional peel or microneedling session) can kickstart repair, chronic low-grade inflammation—also known as inflammaging—leads to:
Collagen breakdown
Increased pigmentation
Accelerated aging
More skin conditions
Weakened skin barrier
This is why I never recommend starting with the strongest option “just because.” More isn’t better. Stronger isn't always better. Smarter is better.
If your skin is inflamed, nothing works the way it’s supposed to—including your expensive products. In fact, I often cannot even treat people who have been on tretinoin long-term as their barriers are super weak and raw.
So... Is Tretinoin Better Than Retinol?
It depends on your skin.
Tretinoin might be a better choice if:
You’ve used retinol consistently for 6+ months without any noticeable improvement in your skin condition(s).
You have grade III or IV acne and have not found relief of improvement via facials, peels, or retinol usage after 6+ months.
You’re supported by both a licensed esthetician and dermatologist collaboratively who both think tretinoin would be a good next step.
You have a healthy, resilient skin barrier and a solid skincare routine including daily sunscreen usage.
Retinol is typically better if:
You’re new to active ingredients.
You want long-term, sustainable anti-aging benefits.
You have sensitive, dry, or easily inflamed skin.
You’re focused on supporting your barrier and preventing issues before they start.
You have weak kidney function or internal toxicity.
And sometimes… no retinoid at all is the smartest option:
If your skin is youthful and healthy.
If you’re dealing with extreme sensitivity or barrier damage.
If you’re pregnant or planning to become pregnant.
If you simply prefer a more minimal or natural routine.
My Skin Property Philosophy on Retinoids
Start with the skin barrier. If your barrier isn’t thriving, nothing else matters. Don't use a retinoid unless your barrier is strong and ready.
Inflammation should be strategic, never chronic. Retinoids, especially retinoic acid, can create chronic inflammation.
Stronger ≠ better. Smarter = better. Always. All skin is different and takes a unique approach. I don't have ONE client with the same routine or treatment strategy.
I never slap retinoids into a routine just for the sake of it. I evaluate your goals, your lifestyle, and your skin’s real-time needs to build a plan you can actually stick to—one that gets results without wrecking your skin in the process.
How to Choose the Right Retinoid
Here’s the simple 5-step decision tree I use with clients:
Step 1: Define your goal. Are we targeting acne, aging, texture, pigmentation—or a combo? No goals? Then we probably don't need a retinoid.
Step 2: Evaluate sensitivity. If you flush, peel, or sting easily, we’re starting low and slow or not at all.
Step 3: Start with a stabilized retinol or retinal. I typically recommend starting with 1–3 nights per week, gradually increasing with barrier support in place.
Step 4: Pair it with proper support. Always use SPF, a nourishing skin-appropriate moisturizer, and gentle cleansers alongside your retinoid.
Step 5: Reassess regularly. Skin evolves with time, seasons, hormones, stress, and life. Your skincare should evolve, too. This is why I typically change my clients' routines seasonally.
Should I Be Using a Retinoid at All?
Maybe. But maybe not.
This is exactly where a licensed esthetician comes in—to help you decode the noise, understand your skin’s unique needs, and build a strategy that supports real results.
Dermatologists are amazing at diagnosing and prescribing. But estheticians like me are your ongoing strategy partners. I help guide ingredient choices, monitor progress, pivot routines, and coach you through long-term changes—without the inflammation spiral.
Do not rely on Google or ChatGPT for figuring out what you need - there's not substitution for an experienced expert.
Final Thoughts From Your Skin Coach
There’s no one-size-fits-all in skincare, especially with ingredients as potent as retinoids. Your skin is a living, evolving organ—and it deserves a thoughtful, personalized plan.
So whether you're in Winter Garden, FL looking for a customized facial, or you're anywhere in the U.S. ready to start your virtual skincare coaching journey, I’m here to help you choose what’s best for your skin—not someone else’s routine.
Ready to Start?
Book your virtual consultation or in-person facial today and let’s find out if retinol, tretinoin—or something else entirely—is right for you.
Skin Property Esthetics | Winter Garden, FLServing clients virtually across the U.S. and beyondBOOK YOUR APPOINTMENT HERE!
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